Assam has a rich history and tradition of making handcrafted jewellery. Assamese jewellery in Barpeta or Asomiya Gohona is predominantly crafted by hand, with its designs often featuring representations of the region’s rich flora and fauna of North East India. The traditional Assamese jewellery in Barpeta are characterized by their simplicity, adorned with vibrant red gemstones like rubies or mina.
Traditional Jewellery Centers of Assam
The craft of making traditional Assamese jewellery continues to thrive in three notable pockets: Ranthali in Nagaon district, Sonari Gaon in Jorhat district, and Barpeta Town in Barpeta District. In Barpeta Town, the jewellery is made mostly in silver and occasionally in gold; but lac, leaf gold (Pat Xon), and stones are not used in the production of jewellery in Barpeta Town. In Barpeta, the artisans who craft these Assamese jewellery are called Sunaris or Karikars. These craftsmen have inherited their skills of manufacturing jewellery from their forefathers.
Why The Art of Jewellery Making Started in Barpeta
The people of Barpeta delved into jewelry making as a response to their historical economic activities. In ancient times, the community was engaged in trading goods like salt, eri (a type of silk), and lac, which was collected from the Garo Hills. However, when outsiders engaged in trade, they typically used gold and silver coins, known as mohars. Within the local community, these mohars had limited utility and were often stored away. Over time, these stashed mohars were rediscovered, leading to the creative process of crafting jewelry, utilizing the unused coins as precious materials for their intricate ornaments. This transition highlights the innovative and resourceful nature of the people of Barpeta, who found new ways to repurpose these coins and establish themselves as artisans in the realm of jewelry making.
The Satras, founded by the revered Mahapurush Sankaradeva in the 16th century, served as Ekasarana monasteries with significant cultural influence. These religious institutions played a pivotal role in the introduction of various arts, including the traditional craft of jewelry-making, helping to nurture and preserve Assamese cultural heritage. Till date, the villages that have been very famous in this art, are found near Barpeta Satra.
Characteristics of Assamese Jewellery in Barpeta
Some of the popular traditional Assamese Jewellery in Barpeta or Asomiya Gohona are earrings such as Lokaparo, Keru, Thuriya, Jangphai, Long Keru, Sona or Makori. A variety of necklaces like Golpata, Satsori, Joon biri, Bena, Gejera, Dhol biri, Doog doogi, Biri Moni, Mukuta Moni, Poalmoni, Silikha Moni, and Magardana, as well as an assortment of rings such as Senpata, Horinsakua, Jethinejia, Bakharpata, and more, are part of this diverse collection of Barpetia jewellery. The main feature that separates the Barpetia jewellery is the gold-plating or filigree and silver ornaments. The most famous ornament made by the artisans of Barpeta is Keru.
Reasons for its decline
However, the income of artisans are constantly dwindling. The dwindling of this traditional jewelry-making craft in Barpeta can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, many artisans are being lured away to cities like Kolkata, Mumbai, and even countries like China, where they may find more lucrative opportunities. This migration of skilled craftsmen leads to a depletion of talent in the local area.
Secondly, the rising prices of precious metals, such as gold and silver, have made it more challenging for artisans to source the necessary materials for their craft. The increased cost of raw materials has put additional financial strain on the craft.
Furthermore, the use of machinery in jewelry-making has become more prevalent, which, while increasing efficiency, often sacrifices the handcrafted and intricate elements that define traditional Assamese jewelry. This shift towards mechanization diminishes the craftsmanship and uniqueness associated with these traditional ornaments.
Finally, a lack of consistent work and income has pushed local artisans to explore alternative means of employment, such as manual labor or driving autos and cycle-rickshaws, which offer more financial stability. This diversion of talent away from jewelry-making contributes to the decline of this traditional craft.
Way Ahead for Assamese Jewellery in Barpeta
The path forward for preserving the tradition of Barpetia jewelry involves several important steps. One significant plea from the youth is for the government to implement a ban on using materials like copper and other non-traditional substances in the production of Barpetia jewelry. This move would help maintain the authenticity and quality of these cherished ornaments.
Furthermore, the efforts to secure Geographical Indication (GI) status for Assamese jewelry are crucial. This designation would not only protect the cultural and regional identity of these ornaments but also help in promoting and preserving the traditional craft. GI status can be a valuable tool in safeguarding the legacy of Assamese jewelry, ensuring that it continues to flourish and thrive for future generations.
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